Whether Watches Hold Value as Investments
Watches rarely outpace inflation or stock market returns, and most lose value the moment you buy them
A watch is an investment only if it appreciates faster than the alternatives you could buy with the same money. For most watches, this does not happen. A new luxury watch typically loses 20 to 40 percent of its retail price in the first year, then depreciates more slowly over time. Even watches that eventually stabilize or gain value usually take a decade or more to break even against what you paid, by which time the stock market would have compounded your money several times over.
The watches that do hold or gain value are narrow exceptions: certain vintage Rolex sports models, Patek Philippe dress watches, and a handful of other steel sports watches from established makers. These pieces have limited production runs, strong collector demand, and documented price histories. But even among luxury watches, the majority lose money. A Cartier tank, an Omega Seamaster, or a new Rolex Submariner bought at retail will almost certainly be worth less in five years than you paid for it.
Key Takeaways
- Most new watches lose 20 to 40 percent of their purchase price in the first year and continue to depreciate over time.
- Only a small number of vintage and limited-production watches from brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe have historically appreciated, and even these require patience and expertise to buy and sell at the right time.
- The cost of authentication, insurance, storage, and eventual sale eats into any gains a watch might make.
- Money invested in a diversified stock portfolio or index fund will almost always outpace watch appreciation over the same period.
- If you buy a watch, do so because you want to wear and enjoy it, not because you expect it to fund future goals.
How watch depreciation works in the first five years
When you buy a new watch from an authorized dealer, you pay the manufacturer's suggested retail price. The moment you leave the store, that watch enters a secondary market where prices are set by what collectors and resellers actually pay, not by what the brand suggests. For most watches, this price is substantially lower than retail.
A new watch loses the steepest portion of its value in year one because it is no longer new. Collectors and resellers prefer unworn pieces with original packaging and documentation, and a watch you have worn—even carefully—is worth less than an identical unworn one. After the first year, depreciation slows but continues. A watch that cost $5,000 new might sell for $3,000 after one year, $2,500 after three years, and $2,200 after five years. At that rate, you have lost 56 percent of your money while earning nothing on it.
Which watches actually hold or gain value
The exceptions are real but specific. Certain steel sports watches from Rolex—particularly the Submariner, GMT-Master II, and Daytona—have appreciated significantly over the past decade, especially for vintage models from the 1960s through 1980s. Patek Philippe Nautilus and Aquanaut models have also held value and sometimes gained it. A small number of vintage Omega Seamasters and Tudor watches have done the same. These pieces share common traits: they were produced in limited numbers, they have strong collector followings, they are durable enough to last decades, and they have documented price histories that show sustained demand.
But even these watches are not reliably profitable. A vintage Rolex Submariner from 1970 might be worth $15,000 today, but you would have had to buy it at the right price ten or fifteen years ago, store it properly, insure it, and then find a buyer willing to pay that amount. If you bought the same watch five years ago for $12,000, you might sell it today for $14,000—a gain of $2,000 before you subtract insurance costs, authentication fees, and the time spent finding a buyer. Over five years, that is a return of about 3 percent annually, which is below the historical average return of the stock market.
The hidden costs of watch ownership as investment
Buying a watch as an investment requires spending money beyond the purchase price. Insurance for a valuable watch typically costs 1 to 2 percent of its value per year. If you own a $10,000 watch, you are paying $100 to $200 annually just to protect it. Storage matters too—watches should be kept in a climate-controlled safe or safe deposit box, not on a shelf where humidity and temperature swings can damage the movement. A safe deposit box costs $50 to $200 per year depending on size and location.
When you sell, you will likely use a specialized watch dealer or auction house rather than selling privately, because they handle authentication and attract serious buyers. These services take a commission of 10 to 20 percent of the sale price. If your watch sells for $8,000, you might net $6,400 to $7,200 after the dealer's cut. Over the years you owned it, you also paid for maintenance—a watch service typically costs $300 to $1,000 depending on the movement and the watchmaker. Add all these costs together, and a watch that appears to have gained value often has not when you account for what you actually spent.
Comparing watch returns to other investments
The S&P 500 index has returned an average of about 10 percent annually over the past 50 years, including reinvested dividends. A $10,000 investment in an index fund tracking the S&P 500 would have grown to roughly $67,000 over 20 years at that rate. A $10,000 luxury watch purchased 20 years ago would likely be worth $3,000 to $5,000 today, even if it is one of the better-holding models. The difference is not close.
Real estate, bonds, and other traditional investments also outpace watches over meaningful time horizons. Even a high-yield savings account earning 4 to 5 percent annually beats most watches, because the money is liquid, requires no insurance or storage, and you can access it if you need it. A watch ties up capital in an illiquid asset that you cannot easily sell and that requires ongoing costs to maintain.
When a watch makes sense as a purchase
A watch is worth buying if you want to wear it and enjoy it for years. A well-made mechanical watch is a functional tool and a personal object that can bring genuine pleasure. If you buy a watch you love and wear it regularly, the depreciation is simply the cost of that enjoyment—the same way you pay for a car or a bicycle. The fact that it loses value is not a problem if you were never counting on it to make money.
A watch also makes sense if you are buying a specific model you have researched thoroughly and that has a documented history of holding value—but only if you are prepared to hold it for at least five to ten years, maintain it properly, and accept that you might not recover your full investment. This is not an investment strategy; it is a hobby with the possibility of breaking even.
How to think about watches in your overall financial plan
If you have money to invest toward a financial goal—retirement, a down payment, education—watches should not be part of that plan. The returns are too low and too uncertain. Put that money into a diversified portfolio of stocks, bonds, or index funds instead. If you have already met your savings goals and have discretionary money left over, then a watch you genuinely want to own is a reasonable use of that money, with the understanding that it is a purchase, not an investment.
The distinction matters because it changes how you should think about the decision. An investment is something you buy to grow your wealth. A watch you wear and enjoy is something you buy for the experience of owning and using it. One requires a financial return; the other does not. Be honest about which category your watch falls into, and you will make a clearer decision.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do vintage watches appreciate more than new ones?
Some vintage watches have appreciated significantly, particularly steel sports models from Rolex and Patek Philippe from the 1960s through 1980s. But vintage watches require expertise to authenticate, may need expensive repairs, and are harder to sell than new watches. Most vintage watches still depreciate or hold value at best.
What is the best watch brand for holding value?
Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Omega have the strongest track records for value retention, but even within these brands, only specific models hold value consistently. A Rolex Submariner or GMT-Master II has held value better than most Rolex dress watches. Research the specific model's price history before assuming it will appreciate.
Should I buy a watch at retail or on the secondary market?
Buying on the secondary market is usually cheaper, but you pay for authentication and lose the warranty and service history that come with a new watch. If you are buying as an investment, the secondary market is more efficient because you avoid the steepest first-year depreciation. If you want a new watch to wear, retail gives you peace of mind about authenticity.
Can I make money flipping watches?
Occasionally, yes—if you buy a watch below market value and sell it quickly when demand spikes. But this requires expertise in spotting underpriced pieces, understanding market trends, and having capital tied up in inventory. It is closer to a business than an investment, and most people who try it lose money.
Is a luxury watch better than a regular watch as an investment?
Luxury watches hold value better than mass-market watches, but "better" is relative. A $500 watch loses value just like a $5,000 watch does. The luxury watch might depreciate more slowly in percentage terms, but you have more capital at risk. Neither is a sound investment compared to stocks or bonds.